The symptoms I had was a low cold start idle and going lean coming to a stop. Thank you for your input. Contact whomever sold you your system or Holley directly. Holley Sniper review - The good, the bad, and learn from my - StangNet Are these compatible enough? Holley Sniper IAC | Chevy Nova Forum have the system learn the higher speeds? Except at idle. The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. Car was running great initially. Could the IAC be broken/malfunctioning? These aren't generic newsletters either but instead personalized emails. We'll also be contacting you for future purchases now that I've discovered you! Follow this link to download it for free if you have not already done so. With the engine still idling high park, set the brake, open the hood, and remove the air cleaner. Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. Super helpful and knowledgeable. What I can't explain is why your TPS is acting so randomly. It works instantly for him.If that fixes your problem then you have a starting place. The 5-6 times it has happened now have been after the car has been running for at least 20 minutes. and go to restart warm, it catches starts for a flick of a second, drops to a stall, or sometimes will catch its self and start. Is there any chance that your timing has changed since you installed your Sniper? It may take a few tries. Also if I give it a I have heard some guys complain that the idle is too good and they can't hear their cam anymore I'm kind of like that. Coming home from work today it was much warmer and took a little longer due to traffic. Every time though I can turn the car off and restart and it settles at 850 with IAC 2-4.The thing that has me puzzled is how the with the only difference in condition of the car being the restart, the idle is "fixed"Any clues on where to look next please let me know. Observing the temperature on the 3.5-inch handheld (only), wait for the temperature to achieve 160 degrees F. Once above 160 degrees, turn the idle speed screw so that the idle is about 50 RPM below your target idle speed set in step 1, above. You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. Running the vacuum advance and of course I time it disconnected. Mechanical Fuel Pressure Gauge on the inlet of your Sniper, now is the time. Software: Idle > IAC Settings > Idle Spark, Handheld: Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Spark, After completing this 10-step process, if the temperature displayed on the handheld is still above 160 degrees the engine should go right to it's target. To be honest, you sound like an ideal candidate for Sniper ECU ignition timing control. It appears that I could now use the dongle and a laptop to custom tune for idle issues if needed. During after-start idle, the idle will jump up to about 70% if the engine is cold, stay there about 4 seconds and then ramp down to the target idle speed for the current engine temperature. IAC Testing Procedure for EFI Systems At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. This is a mighty big subject for a blog post reply, I should probably start doing some videos on this. 90% of problems, (INCLUDING MYSELF) could be answered/fixed by just reading the instructions. I drove it a bunch more yesterday afternoon/evening and the same thing happened several times. If the ECU has not spent some significant time learning yet, I'd recommend going back through the setup wizard and getting everything back to default. If the engine will after the 4 seconds that the IAC kick drops off then it's not really going to help.At any rate, it costs you nothing to advance the ignition and see if that doesn't improve the idle, right? AGAIN This is Intermittent meaning on a recent trip I stopped 3 times and issued occurred once. This will tell us if the ECU thinks that it is in control of setting the idle or if it thinks that you are driving the engine speed with the pedal. Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. The "Gauge Text" is what would be shown on a 2-1/16 gauge or the Avenger handheld display. Idle was back to normal but iac was at 0. back upthe RPMs shoot up to anywhere between 1500 and 2000 and they will not get The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. The manifold pressure increases with the throttle opening but the RPMs are still low. There's a procedure there I can share with you if you'd like.. I have never seen issue when CTS is below 120 degrees. The whole topic of using the Sniper TPS for transmission control is one deserving of it's own article but I'll try to summarize a bit here. Two months fighting, cursing, not getting any help from Holley OR the forum, and a stupid little tin plate. That With an assistant pressing the accelerator, you need to make sure that when the accelerator is pressed to WOT that the throttle blades are fully opened, and when accelerator is lifted the linkage is fully at rest against the idle speed screw. The problem I experience is that after driving for about 10-15 minutes, the car starts idle to high. A simple remove & clean will remedy this . Thank you for this guide on setting IAC. Thanks Again for your help. and if you do run into any problems then, yes, the plethora of tunability adjustments available through either the handheld or the Sniper Software will certainly be enough to get you right where you need to be! Usually it wont stay on 0% very long and soon changes to another number like 1 or 2%. Let me be perfectly clear: If your engine will not drop below 1350 RPM with the idle speed screw turned all the way out then you have an air leak. Do you have a PCV on the engine? It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. It'll start & run till it's warm, then when I try setting the IAC every time, I try getting it between the 2 & 8% it quits. If you suspect this then try to find a situation where this occurs where you can safely check the secondary throttle shaft and see if i's slightly open. But, if the idle is so high that it is making you crazy then you might try dropping that number just a bit. Good Hi Chris I didn't get any traction on Holley.com Have you checked your fuel filter and made sure it's not plugged?If both of these are okay you're going to have to find a way to monitor your fuel pressure while under load. Somehow air is entering the engine that was not entering the engine when you originally set the idle speed screw. The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) Hello, I am having a tps and idle issue. It sounds like you need a bit more of a fuel squirt on acceleration, Brett. I cut and heat-shrink wrapped the 5V wire and then ran both the signal and ground wires all the way back to the transmission controller. Bolt-on carburetor style EFI for your classic car or truck. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. Sniper EFI offers superior throttle response and wide-open throttle power. Please help. Capability Range: Advanced If you drop it too far the engine will stumble or stall when coming off the throttle with the car out of gear, so you'll know when you've gone too far. That is not a huge problem but it just means the IAC has no ability to lower the idle beyond what it is running at that point. If the minus 40 degree setting is lower than the setting to the right, simply move it up so that it looks something like this: The folks who have tried this have found that their idle speed control behaves much more as they expect. Try it! I appreciate everything you are saying. Drop the IAC parked position a bit at each temperature point and sort of back into the solution. But they are 100% committed to your satisfaction. If you have any questions about the car/setup let me know. Inj. Give them a call and if they are unable to provide customer support the contact the Holley tech support line at 1-866-464-6553. Setup: 1965 Impala SS; ZZ6 Crate Engine, EFI Distributor. that my Air/Fuel ration was 15:1 and I believe the target is 13.5:1. What would cause the idle to faulter like that? is the fuel pressure. Holley Sniper EFI hard start about 1/2 throttle from stop it bogs down after 3 or 4 seconds.What I That will at least tell you something. EFI Troubleshooting EFIand and EFI Tuning Tips - In The Garage Media Hello Chris. If the engine idles at 750 RPM with the throttle plates all the way closed and the IAC at zero then there is some sort of an issue. Laptop Access The "PC Text" indicates what will be shown on the PC/Laptop data monitor or data logger. When you set the Static Timing to 15, what did you read with the timing light? They always responded to my questions with guidance that helped me choose the right system for me. In the context of the Sniper the AFR that is being displayed is the AFR of ethanol-free gasoline based on the lambda that is being read by the AFR. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure Gauge, article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions. When I removed the tape and started it again, it was idling at 1400-1500 RPM and sucking a bunch of air through the IAC, even though it showed 0% on the sensors screen (pic attached). any ideas? The progressive link can be a great solution on standard (non-Stealth) throttle bodies but I would install this LAST after everything else is working perfectly. That is not the way to go. Thanks for the information you have provided on this site. Reply Quote. One of the great features of Holley's Sniper is the ability to set your air/fuel ratio (AFR) where you want it. Holley Sniper EFI Problems: Best Fixes According to Manufacturer There's nothing wrong with manual tuning, but at this point that is just compensating for an inadequate fuel map. Purists will sniff that these are not accurate to the tenth of a PSI. Sniper EFI Update: Weeks Later, Do I Still Feel It Was Worth It? The car cruises fine, and if I was to keep idle at 2000rpm the issue wont happen, its only when the car tries to ramp down to idle position.Thank you for your help, any advice would be appreciated.Thank you,Eric, Whenever we see the AFR go to "Heating" that is an indication that the ECU has been reset. We will definitely be sticking with Holley from here on out for future retro-fits. Sniper EFI - Holley Hang in there--you can do it. A good example of why it's so important to run a good pre filter in the fuel line. Sometimes an engine can produce enough vacuum to pull the secondaries open slightly. Overview. By the way, this is a new installation on a 69 Camaro, stock 350, dual sync, etc. Cracked casing from a side cover screw being installed crossed threaded. Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. Don't try to correct for the fuel. First, recognize that the IAC and the TPS are not inter-related in any way. Some suggestions: i did have the same problem.try lengthening the lever of the throttle.meaning the length from the center of the throttle to the point where you attach your cable or your rod from the peddle. The Sniper resets the TPS to 0% each time that you key the system on. The latest was changing the power brake booster.Today I drove it to work and no issues at all. Ive had an idle at neutral as high as 2400 rpm. First, recognize that the amount below your target where you set the hard idle will be different on different engines. The ticking is inline with the fuel pressure I feel squeezing both the fuel return & delivery lines (like a heartbeat). When this occurs, I sometimes can shut it down and it will return to the correct settiings. This is normally used as an A/C idle-up circuit. Properly configured, the Sniper does a fantastic job of responding to the transition from Park to Drive. engine works beautiful, the car runs a lot, but suddenly, the engine does that. If I'm driving along and pull up to a light and leave it in gear it idles just fine but it seems not to be able to compensate if I put it in neutral and then back and drive. If you have a bellcrank in your throttle linkage, ensure that the linkage is not engaging the bellcrank at an angle greater than 45 degrees at either end of the throw. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. At that point the tps is pretty high, then shut the ignition off, pull the tape restart the engine and idle goes into hold mode and idle is through the roof. I'm also having a high idle problem but its different. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. The Sniper will be controlling the timing so it will be based on a multitude of factors. But nothing beats a good solid gut-check I would not expect that an electric fan would create a noticeable load on the engine but if it did then you'd want to set the idle screw when the fan was not running. Thanks for the info Chris. I would start by removing the progressive linkage. I'm running a 408 sbc. Any help would b great. Chris's Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions*: *Note: If you are using your Sniper to control ignition timing then I recommend that before you start this process you disable idle spark control If you are trying to do this while the ECU is simultaneously trying to bring your idle under control by adjusting the advance it is going to be counter-productive. All times are GMT-6. I'll have to check again tomorrow. So as much as I can I have been taking off real slow and let it fall on itself to try to learn and its not learning its way out of it. If the connection is loose it will cause the system to shut fuel off because the signal telling the EFI the motor is turning stops (to prevent excess fuel from being dumped in the motor). Please give this a try and let us know how it works! I'm so glad you found this helpful--that makes my day!Don't get too concerned about the specific learn percentage. Yes, it will talk to you--but not with words. This value is itself enough to raise the idle a bit. Replacement Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor for Sniper EFI TBI Systems, Sniper 90/92/102mm Throttle Bodies, Terminator TBI, Avenger 4bbl TBI, HP 4bbl TBI, Commander 950 & Digital Pro-Jection Systems. 400 engine, C6 3 speed automatic, with standard canister coil for ignition, and As I have it set right now, my idle at park is in the high 700s and my desired idle in gear is set at about 700 cold (80 degrees) and gradually lowers to 590 once engine temp reaches 160 degrees. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. If I keep the rpm's up it does fine but my clutch can't keep up with this for long.Also when I cover the IAC port the engine dies. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. Duty Cycle% = 3 Good luck! As I said above, you could have a bad IAC, but then again, the IAC might be fine and there's a deeper problem such as RFI noise causing the issue or a vacuum leak that is confusing things. First, let me congratulate you on your patience in letting the system learn. first attempt but as it tries to idle down to the target RPMsit can never even lower until I turn down the set screw. If the TPS is 1% or below then the air is coming from somewhere else. I have a set of 8.8 Accel Rfi suppression wires on it. Idle IAC problems? - Holley Performance Products Forums WIthout knowing quite a bit more it will be more than challenging for you to identify the problem and solve it.Fortunately, Holley provides their amazing Sniper Software. 63 bomb This curve turns the idle speed down as the engine warms. There is a chance that the IAC is open but displaying 0% so start by putting your finger over the IAC opening. IAC Calibration / Hanging rpms | Team Chevelle While confirming, in the handheld ensure that the Reference Angle is set to 57.5 and that the Inductive Delay is set to 100. Any suggestions would be appreciated. When stopping, the brakes are unable to overcome the engine so I go to neutral just to stop fighting the engine. Holley Sniper EFI 543-122 Sniper EFI Remote IAC Kit Chris thank you for the info. If you have performed the adjustments above and still have RPM issues, it's time to look for clues. Reducing that a bit will help. Cycled the ignition off. Is this normal ? Now that you've got your IAC set I'm going to recommend that you run your setup wizard again, which will reset the ECU to the default settings. Holley documentation and videos didn't work and the $300 I paid for "expert" tuning didn't work either. $107.95. Holley Pro-Jection TBI Replacement Parts - JEGS If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. So the issue Im having is low idle. The biggest issue is these problems are intermittent meaning they do not occur all the time. EFI System Pro had everything I needed for my EFI upgrade. When you open your IAC to 30% you are naturally going to have a high idle condition. Chris---I am contemplating replacing my Holley 750 on my new low vacuum 600 HP 496 with the Holley Sniper FI system. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. Hi Chris thanks in advance for any tips. Holley Sniper Iac Delete So this is my issue ( I did just email Holly). Holley Sniper EFI 550-552 Holley Sniper EFI Autolite 1100 - Gold It could be that you've left a vacuum port unplugged, it could be that the throttle plates are misaligned (unlikely), it could be that your IAC is not closing properly. An undersized or partially plugged fuel filter is a classic EFI installation mistake. No, the idle speed curve setting isn't something that you normally worry about--and especially not down at minus 40 degrees farenheit. But once you come off the throttle there is a minimum RPM that the ECU wants to see before it releases the IAC from the park position and that is normally 1000 RPM over the target idle. That changes almost instantly as the engine revs.Since the learning algorithm requires some time exposure to a certain condition to make larger changes, that half-second makes only the smallest impact. If you have somehow overlooked this, start here: Holley Idle Speed Adjustment Instructions: Once the engine is up to operating temperature, the idle speed can be set to what was configured in the Wizard. I have been reading these posts and have learned a lot. Fuel Flow lb / h = 12.1 Next, reach down into the secondaries and push the butterflies closed. I also tried changing roc/map to 8 from 15 again no change at all.My ve table is smooth and tuned I even changed my AFR to 13.5 from 14.2 and no change at all. I have a Holley Sniper EFI with HyperSpark ignition. If I go any more it will ping. All in all, considering the system has been installed for less than 2 hours drive time we're BLOWN AWAY at how quickly it is "learning" this engine. Keep in mind that at 60 miles the Could be a bad IAC motor, replace it and see if that solves the problem. Chris, Do you have any clue? Since that has long been corrected we have moved that information to the bottom of the article.). Idle > IAC Kick. The TPS will go red with a -15 and the AFR reads heating for a split second, then the idle kicks up to 2000RPM. Genuine Walbro fuel pumps are virtually bullet-proof. This software is going to allow you to open both the configuration file and the datalogs that you create, overlay them and you can get a much better idea of what is happening. I'll give the ". It's a Chevy 350 bored .030" over it has a cam in it what I was told is the cam has the firing order swapped. Then it started behaving oddly. Hello However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. That is certainly not normal! Idles ok, runs great cruising, but from a stand still or downshifting and making a turn, when I get back into it, it wants to fall on its face. It might be necessary to insulate or re-route your fuel lines if this can't be solved any other way. It will need to see it again and again. I did buy the Sniper from you guys and the service was fantastic. When I turn it off and try to restart it just cranks. I had HIGH Idle issue and fixing this curve FIXED the ISSUE --- THANK YOUCan you explain what "Current Learn % means, after finally fixing the idle problem this % jump from -1 to -30% in about 5 minutes at idle with CTS @ about 170.Also when starting the car at hot the engine goes to about 2300+ RPM for a few seconds then crashes down to my Hot idle speed of 950 -- bounces a little and then smooths out. Ive tried setting the prime setting above 150 but it wont take, it always goes back to 150. I've abbreviated it just a little bit but am appreciative of the added insight your comments provided.Off-idle performance can really be a challenge to self-learn but be assured that it can almost always be done. Idle quality is great, RPM is good, sometimes IAC is now between 2 and 5 exactly where it should be. Any suggestions? Ok, so there are a couple peculiar things going on here. Let's start by not assuming anything. You mentioned going from 13.5 to 14.2 but you'd want to go in the other direction--maybe to 13.2. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. Thank you. You could install the Holley Dual-Sync Distributor and let the Sniper control your timing. it will jerk and rpm will go up and down and AFR will be around 20 : 1 or more or less. Did you find this enlightening? A problem since day 1 - YouTube Leave a comment if you've had this issue and how you resolved. Hey Chris Ive also used another snap on light to confirm. I'm going to jump out on a limb here and say you either don't have adequate fuel flow or pressure. After talking to Holley tech, I replaced the factory regulator and problem solved.The regulator had what appeared to be a film or something almost clear embedded in some of the screen, maybe from factory or from install, but that was my issue.PS : this page and other forums have helped me a lot. Now, in my lifetime of experience with Holley ECU's that seems unlikely, but this guy sounded really sharp and had nothing to gain by convincing me of his dilemma. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. While this video is not meant for the Sniper EFI user it does provide a great overview of how your ethanol tuning adjustments must be made not only to the base fuel map but to the other configuration settings. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. you have it set. You have to remove all hoses in order to debug the problem. I pulled over and turned the car off and then back on. The engine might run hot but if the timing is right it should keep that heat in the engine--which is where the damage turns up. There is no sense proceeding until your TPS is at zero at key-on. Shut off the engine, ensure power to the Sniper is switched off. The only other thing I changed was accel enrich but whatever way I go doesn't seem to change anything unless I change it drastically. % = 49 I have an adapter on the manifold for squarebore to spreadbore and then a phenolic spacer. Have you ever experienced a high idle once the engine reaches 200 degrees?Ive set my idle the way you said and it works great until the engine reaches 200 degrees. I installed another return spring for the rear plates problem solved instantly. (Do this while you are cranking.) It is how the engineers allow you to clear a flood condition when you detect it. The fix? If you've been running a filter then you have to wonder if you have a legitimate Walbro pump.If you install a new pump and the noise is still coming from the Sniper EFI System then only the dealer who sold you your system can help you. Does anyone have photos of this additional return spring they installed? Initial Baseline Idle Speed Screw Setting, http://forums.holley.com/showthread.neral-IAC-Info, http://documents.holley.com/199r11031r.pdf, https://forums.holley.com/showthread-Idle-Solution, If this is your first visit, be sure to i would have been happy to answer there. But another thing to consider is adjusting your target A/F ratio. That is likely just confusing the issue.Instead, choose whichever setup most resembles your camshaft and stick with that. IAC Testing Procedure for EFI Systems me know how it works for you. However, I always preach to never touch any of the controls on the handheld until you have a couple hundred miles on the engine in a range of driving situations. Capability Range: Professional If your fuel pressure is at or about 60 PSI then visually inspect the barrels of the throttle body while having someone key on the Sniper. I would only play with this if you are finding that the other adjustments I suggested aren't working. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. And, while that is happening, make a note of the temperature before you engage the starter, and then the rpm when it starts.The Idle Parked Position is set on a temperature-based graph like the Idle Speed Curve. Cycling the power to the Sniper EFI would cure the problem, but not prevent it from coming back. Hello, Chris, thanks for the help.I have not installed the software yet, and I'm having trouble with two cars. I am having an issue with the IAC on the Sniper. I think you'll be all set! such high fuel pressure. This page was generated at 12:25 AM. I don't want to go on too long here but once you know if you're trying to add or remove fuel, there are a couple of ways to go. Fortunately, I have an article that goes into this in some detail. It could be a couple of things. I have driven it a few times maybe 100 miles or so. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. And if you're going to go this route I'd recommend that you switch from "Simple" (3 A/F targets, one each for Idle, Cruise, and WOT) and go to the 2-D Table Holley have given a new unit. The solution is to either lower the IAC hold position or increase the RPM above idle to start ramp (default is 1000 RPM). Solving Holley Sniper High Idle Issues - EFISystemPro.com Not good.There isn't set solution here that works for all engines. I' m going to put the 3 rd new pump this coming friday. Changing the rpm curve and target rpm has no effect. When I covered the IAC with my finger, the RPM dropped so low it stalled. Idle was around 1000 mark and iac 0. Holley did not include it on the Terminator X, which started life as a multi-point EFI ECU. And since they really had an insanely-tight monetary and real estate budget in the Sniper EFI System, it is unlikely that the added something that wasn't absolutely necessary--and then forgot to use it..And you are spot on about the little Earl's gauge with optional -6 AN port. I'm compltely stumped and my wife is certainly upset I'm spending so much time between the garage and the computer for something that should basically run out of the box. I.e. Idle Tuning is a very important part of tuning any EFI system, especially our self-learning units like Sniper or Terminator X EFI. I installed the Sniper on my 1978 Ford F-100 with a small block If the TPS reading on your Sniper EFI System does not reset to zero that is a problem that needs to be addressed. It runs perfectly fine other wise. This question is really outside both the scope of what we try to discuss in the comments section as well as the overall subject of this article. The broad consensus has been that the Sniper is an amazingly straight-forward install and starts and tunes as expected.
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